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Could you show a picture of the spine please
Yes, you can realy tell the difference.
If you are at 1000 it is not a lot of work to go higher, the finer the paper the faster it goes. Try it...
I like using hard woods that take a good hand sanding. I go up to 2500 and micro mesh up to 12.000
And sand with the grain, butt to blade, not spine to belly.
I also think it may have to do with the sheath. Was it wet formed?
Officialy 1 inch = 25.4mm
Also use annealed pins, stainless pinstock may not be as soft as it can be.
But I was also looking in to this question.
I've seen 1:50 reamers...
Either redo or use it as a dirty user and learn from it.
I use a simular mistake here as a kitchen knife
Plus easier to sharpen, just the bevel flat on the stone, no setting/keeping angles
Sure looks cool, but with the right technique any knife as a bottle opener
Building it together needing an extra screw or needing to replace one, forgetting you allan keys and not being able to get the right size etc....
If it is for three months only I'd make and ship the blanks in advance and get a not to expensive grinder to do handle work only.
If you do...
I always clamp scales to the inside of a square tube to drill from the back.
Don't use hidden pins, they'll show and will show very ugly
Grease parts where you don't want epoxy to adhere. It makes removing easier
3rd from the left has very litte steel where the handle starts
You may want to re-sand those scales to 220 for a nice grippy finish.
Should be good for a castrating knife
Arrange the file work so that it ends/starts exactly where the scales will end.
Mark that spot and start forewards and backwards from that point
or re-ream the hole to a known size and use that size pin stock
2 x 20
have a look here: