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Discussion in 'Becker Knife & Tool' started by granitestateofmind, Oct 5, 2014.
Remembering my fallen combat brothers...
I have had six Puronvarsi blades for the last couple years and decided it was time to do something with the remaining five. The rough drawing was changed many times. The TLAR principle said "GO" and the following is the result. The Puronvarsi 120mm x 23mm blade was reworked to make all grinds true and the 800x satin finish was buffed with gray Scotch Brite.. The bolster is nickel silver with a peened finish. The padauk handle has a ebony spacer and the butt end is slightly convex. Simple, utilitarian and comfortable in hand.
Yet another beaut my friend.
DAMM hawk! Right next to FLAWLESS as it gets that handle looks mighty comfortable
Thank you Warrior for your kind words.
Thank you Xr6x. All curves are related via geometric similarity and my hand shape.
AAAAHHH!!! Hawk, make more of that handle!! Where is the little heart-eyes emoji like on my phone?!?
So elegant looking!
Thank you Daizee. My Puronvarsi blades need to get dressed up and become useful knives. I modified my last 120mm blade changing the curve on the belly, reworking the FFG and getting the bevels along the spine really straight. The handle will be related to this one. The wood will be a surprise. Stay tuned.
Thank you GeofS. See above.
welp, i thought i was painting the house today, but it was raining, so i finally got around to starting my BK62 kephart project.
as i said in another post, i really like the knife. but, i want to put thicker scales on it. now, i don't have huge hands... size L gloves, but i don't consider my hands large, if you know what i mean. so, if i was going to make the handle thicker, my thought was i needed to make the handle shorter in height.
here was what my goal was....
i am pleased with how it turned out (pretty close), especially since this was my first attempt at removing steel from a finished knife. it is certainly not perfect, but it is good enough for "my knife". and, i learned some things along the way.
now hopefully putting the handle together won't take me another 6 wks to get to.
Very similar to what I did with my 's' model. What do you thin so far? Do you plan to keep the scales the same thickness, or just narrow the factory ones too?
ETA: Oh, I see now you said thicker.
I've tried it both ways on the narrower handle, and am on the fence about my favorite way. I think if the thicker scales are well-contoured it can work well. Simply slapping liners under slimmed factory material leaves them slightly square.
thanks daizee. and no, i am looking for a fuller "grip", so i plan to have them thicker. that's why i decided to remove some steel, as i thought the handle would be too blocky for my hand, if i left it the same factory height. know what i mean?
Yup. I've made a bunch of scales and modified a bunch of scales on that tang (or same dimension tang). It's an interesting balance. Looking forward to your results!
and yeah, i tried to show the balance in the last pic. obviously, throwing the thicker scales on will move that toward the back. i am curious to see how it turns out myself!
It's funny. I have huge hands, but I like the thinner grip of the 62. Orients very well in the hand for me.
ya know, when i first took it out of the box, i thought the handles were too thin. but, i have to admit i liked it way better in use. so, i may very well get done, and perhaps it'll end up being the same thickness. who knows.
however, i knew almost right away that i would be putting a handle on it. i knew i liked the knife enough that it would be a keeper. i am not a fan of removable handle slabs. i much prefer them to be "permanent". that's just me....i know others feel the opposite.
Nah, I get it, I like permanent handles myself. Although the full size handle Beckers fit my hand, I find they fatigue faster than the thinner scales.
I have developed mixed feelings on permanent vs. bolt-on scales...
I think with thin blades that might get flexed hard, bolts make some sense. Peel forces are the worst for epoxy, and if your scales are "permanent", but suffer some invisible peeling, you'll never be able to do anything about it. If you have bolt-on scales, you dispense with the idea that the tang is sealed, and make different decisions both in manufacture and maintenance. The bolts allow a little slippin'/slidin' of the front of the scales vs. a flexed blade. Of course corby-bolts+epoxy are pretty dang strong. All that said, most of what I do is pinned/epoxied. My thinner pinned/epoxied blades are usually for the kitchen anyhow.
I appreciate this discussion on pinned versus bolted scales.
I’m working on ram horn scales for a tweener. I’ve been thinking hard on how I want to attach them.