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Blade Geometry (not edge geometry)

Discussion in 'Hammer & Tongs' started by Perrin, Oct 17, 2013.

  1. Perrin


    May 12, 2013
    Willie71's post in another thread in relation to Stacy's post in yet another thread posed several questions for me. First in the below sketches of a couple variations of a design I favor, am I understanding correctly the concept of the placement of the index finger along a line drawn tip to center of butt? Dotted lines indicate the line that I believe Stacy is talking about. Secondly am I measuring the center of the butt correctly for this exercise? Two lines drawn parallel with the line tip to butt, so that the handle fits within.


    All input on blade geometry or these designs are welcome and encouraged.


    Aug 7, 2013
    For the best transfer of energy from handle to blade, the index finger should be right at the vertical center line you have marked on the sketches. If you want to keep the sketches the same length, it appears that you should move the transition from handle to guard/ blade about 1/2" forward so the middle of that transition/ curve is at the center line of the knife. Right now they seem to look a little bit too long on the blade side, and a little bit too short on the handle side. Shortening the blade or lengthening the handle will also balance them out nicely. That is my interpretation of what Stacey was trying to describe in the post you linked. That is the only nitpicking that I have about the designs. Look sweet to me.

    I haven't made any knives as of yet but I have been drawing like crazy. The process I have used for my best sketches is to mark the overall length 6", 7" 8" etc , then mark a center line and design from there. Obviously you can always choose to make the knife blade long or handle long based on the design you want.
    Last edited: Oct 17, 2013
  3. Willie71

    Willie71 Warren J. Krywko. Part Time Knifemaker Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider

    Feb 23, 2013
    I understand the center of the but being the middle between the contact points of the hand when holding the knife (palm and pinky for example.)
  4. Perrin


    May 12, 2013
    I think that the line we are talking about would best be described as horizontal running from the tip on the left to the butt on the right. What I don't know if I fully understand is how one is to think of the placement of said index finger and how it is orientated with relation to this line? When holding a knife does the long axis of ones finger run perpendicular to this imaginary line and with the pad of the index finger making contact on the underside of line, at the apex of a finger notch/choil?
  5. 1066vik

    1066vik Gold Member Gold Member

    Nov 28, 2009
    I like the blade shape and proportions of #2, but the handle shape on #1 - especially if you stretch that handle an extra 1/2"
  6. quint


    Nov 29, 2011
    I like 2 and 3 as far as shape and what not. 4 looks like it would be a great little bird and trout style knife but I would lengthen the handle a tad and shorten the blade some. Looks like it would be comfy
  7. Perrin


    May 12, 2013
    Thanks for the feedback, MULDOON too. I drew those to explore the post I linked and really they are just variations of blade and handle shape on a universal ricasso. I really like that ricasso though, you can use it for lots of things; kitchen knives, outdoor knives, belt knives... It is interesting that we must have had similar thoughts because last night I was inspired by the bottom one to make a small bird & trout. So I made a couple of drawings to figure out what I wanted. Turns out a narrow blade and handle profile. The bottom one in this next pic is what turned out. I shortened the blade and lengthened the handle slightly. I want it to nestle into the palm instead of stick out the bottom of your fist.


    The top one was a rehandle of number 2 from above, but that B&T stuck in my mind and at around midnight I cut out the blank for it.


    I didn't need too, I have two really close to going to HT and probably should concentrate on those but this does fit into my learning curve with the goal to make some smaller blades in 1080 to HT on my own. This blank is 1/8" 1080. It is mostly profiled but still need to clean up the bottom of the tang, deepen the finger notch, and take just a bit more off the blade width near the ricasso. I keep picturing it with yellow and blue dyed and stabilized buckeye or similar but have yet to see the right block or scales. In this case either bright yellow and royal blue or pale yellow and sky blue along with just the right wood colors and such. I don't know if I've ever even seen that combination for that matter.

    And here's what it looks like now.


    Last edited: Oct 20, 2013

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