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Carbon steel care, olive or fretboard oil

Discussion in 'Maintenance, Tinkering & Embellishment' started by RidingDutchman, Apr 24, 2019.

  1. GABaus

    GABaus

    92
    May 7, 2017
    For instances in which you might need to coat the blade and might not want to carry a bottle of oil such as a multi day canoe trip, you can apply a thin layer of lip balm to the blade reaplying as needed of cource.
     
    Pteronarcyd and RidingDutchman like this.
  2. Mo2

    Mo2

    Apr 8, 2016
    I believe it's called liquid paraffin eup in Europe.

    In America the food safe label is "usp" and "eup" in Europe.

    I'm not in Europe so I can't say for certain, but the little research I've done suggests this
    Here's one reference of many I've read http://www.sonneborn.com/products/europe-africa-middle-east/white-mineral-oils

    I assume you can get this in the pharmacy aka drug store department as a laxative section, but again I dunno Europe.
     
    RidingDutchman likes this.
  3. Chris "Anagarika"

    Chris "Anagarika"

    Mar 7, 2001
    I also cannot find mineral oil easily down here, so baby oil is the replacement.
    For a more permanent coat, plain Vaseline should be better than oil. Both will not go rancid.
     
    RidingDutchman likes this.
  4. Pteronarcyd

    Pteronarcyd

    98
    Feb 19, 2019
    Baby oil is just scented mineral oil. It's obviously nontoxic, but the scent might be disagreeable when used with food. However, this shouldn't be a problem unless you use the blade right after coating it, as the scent should dissipate quickly. The wintergreen scent in Frog Lube, for example, seems to dissipate within two days.
     
    Last edited: May 7, 2019
    Chris "Anagarika" likes this.
  5. Ace Rimmer

    Ace Rimmer

    840
    Jul 4, 2017
    deleted
     
  6. The 'white mineral oil' that works best with knives (oiling or sharpening) can be found in various disguises. The oil supplied with electric clippers or electric razors is an example. I've also seen it labelled for use for lubricating paper-shredders, food-processing equipment (USP 'food-safe', obviously), and for cutting boards (also food-safe).

    Norton's own sharpening stone oil is also graded food-safe, if you happen to find it in your area. That's what I've been using to oil my own knives. I've also been using some of the stuff labelled for food-processing equipment, found at a restaurant supply store locally, which is as close in consistency & 'cleanliness' as I've seen to the Norton product. I've liked it as a very close alternate favorite, for use on my oil stones.

    The key is to look for the oils that are completely colorless & odorless. If it looks a little 'yellow' or smells like a petroleum product, it's probably not as pure or clean ('food safe') as the better-suited 100% mineral oil products usually considered safe (or at least 'safe enough').
     
    Chris "Anagarika" and Mo2 like this.
  7. Joseph H.

    Joseph H.

    54
    Oct 20, 2018
    Chris "Anagarika" likes this.
  8. Hurrul

    Hurrul Gold Member Gold Member

    160
    Aug 26, 2017
    If you have access to vasoline (as noted earlier in the thread) or white petroleum jelly (a common 1st aid item in the US) would work.

    When I have been in a pinch, w/out frog lube, rem oil, or mineral oil, I have gotten away with beeswax based lip balm. Worked well enough in a humid environment.
     
    Chris "Anagarika" likes this.

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