I've been seeing this stuff called Eagle Tears on some retailers and manufacturer's websites recently, it would be cool to see how it compares to everything else out there: https://www.eagletearsusa.com/product/eagle-tears-blade-guard-paste/
@razor-edge-knives will you do anything to the surface of those to mimic a knife blade's surface (satin/belt finish, tumble, shot blast?).
No, I want to create the most rust prone condition I can (at least initially) so I'll be sandblasting. I want to see the raw power of the corrosion inhibitors at work and this will really allow that property to shine imho
FWIW, I agree with the sand blasted surface. Not only is it rough and corrosion prone, it's also uniform. Hand sanded can actually be worse due to deep scratches, but it's not uniform. In the aerospace world, these types of materials are known as CPCs (Corrosion Protective Compounds). While we mostly worry about the corrosion of high strength aluminum alloys (a HUGE problem on commercial aircraft), the same compounds that work on aluminum also work on carbon steel. LPS-3 has given us very good results. It forms a soft waxy film on the surface, likely similar to that of "WD-40 Long Term Corrosion Inhibitor". BTW I see that WD-40 is renaming that product as "WD-40 Specialist Corrosion inhibitor". That product is significantly more robust than regular WD-40. https://www.wd40.com/products/corrosion-inhibitor/ LPS-3 comes in an aerosol or regular can. The price is reasonable. Carried by all sorts of vendors. https://www.itwprobrands.com/product/lps-3 I can't find the reference off hand, but some years ago I came across a comparison test of CPCs run on carbon steel (Think it was 1065). LPS-3 performed among the best.
Thanks for the input! Was it this link? @Centuriator posted this on a different thread but it shows lps 3 being the top contender in the ones they tested against. But lps 3 is sticky and probably won't work for knives since it's not going to be gooped on and left to dry - I'll be wiping off most of the excess. Yeah the wd40 lcti is some legit stuff
I haven't forgotten to do the test guys... I'm compiling a bunch of products and testing boards. Waiting on xcp from the UK to get here before testing commences
Josh, Very interesting topic, especially for those of us who live in humid or wet environments. I live in San Francisco on the side of a mountain that has lots of natural springs. There is one room in our house (has gun/knife safe) that has higher moisture levels. Fog and daily temp changes cause the rest of the moisture/humidity. We have less humidity than Hawaii. My question is, has anyone measured the effects of spraying a salt solution directly on the surface of metal sample? I would guess that the force of the spray or drizzle would displace the corrosion inhibitor to an extent (not sure how much of an influence on the results). A few mechanics I know, who live in the rust belt, have had good results using lanolin based Fluid Film in preventing corrosion on automobiles. Just questioning the real world worth of spraying solution directly on the sample pieces. Fluid Film seems to work real well here on rust prone automobiles. Also a distinction might be made between corrosion inhibitors for storage versus corrosion inhibitors for EDC use. I've used 3M silicone grease on knives I've stored for long periods, which works extremely well. Whereas, I use Breakfree CLP on firearms or WD-40 wipe downs for EDC. All factors to consider.
Have an old trailer sitting in the yard, rusting. Would be interested in what would work on the hinges, trailer lock & so forth after this outcome.
Yep I am testing Fluid Film for sure, but in these results it didn't fair super well (although decent) so I'm not thinking it will come out on top. Well there are 2 lines of thought here... It's good to see how much washout resistance each oil has It's not good when you simply want ot check corrosion resistance of the oil without the above property. For my purposes I'm going for # 2 so will be using the sprayer on a mist setting (although there are still some droplets hitting it) instead of a stream setting. If it can't resist that then it doesn't have much staying power I wouldn't imagine. That is an interesting point and I will probably check the top 2 or 3 long term to see how they perform in storage conditions. But I imagine if they prevent corrosion up front they would do pretty well long term too, but it shouldn't be necessarily assumed. uhhhhh yeeeeeaaaah they were rusted out after a couple days HAHA, I've moved on to a larger plan (see below) Yep. I want to find the king of the heap for corrosion resistance (but with regards to knives specifically). Whatever I find I'm sure will work even better when you just spray on yard equipment and leave on without wiping the excess off - for these samples I will be spraying on and wiping off to simulate how I would use the product on knives. __________________________________________________ I've been shooting video and gearing up for a test comparing 34-35 products. I'm doing 2 boards, one salt water one fresh water, to see how they compare. The testing should begin today!
24 Hrs on the Salt board, has been sprayed twice at this point. Fresh water (distilled water) board is not exibiting any significant signs of corrosion yet, even the control is only a light coat of rust but I would not consider it a failure quite yet.
Really cool! Glad to see my chapstick hanging on there. What is surprising is that some of them seem to promote/accelerate corrosion or concentrate it to spots.
Still watching this ... glad to see a few products I've settled on working pretty well. Thanks for doing this Josh!
Yeah I found that quite interesting myself!! Yeah chapstick seems to come in right behind the froglube which is the leader in the food safe protection products.
Something can be said for applying your protection "lube" to both your tool & your lips. Wait...that came out wrong.
it's something of a comeuppance seeing ren wax not doing so great I'm kicking myself for not asking for testing BLO
