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Discussion in 'Daniel Fairly Knives' started by flatblackcapo, Aug 31, 2013.
That is the most intimidating spoon I've ever seen. What is the Norse god of soup?
Daniel! Looking for a Counterbore set.
How's this one?
Too expensive? Crappy? just right?
That's a good price if that is what you need. I don't use many counterbores but HSS is versatile material.
ok im not a machinist by any means, and hardly know what the blunt end of a hammer is used for. Buttttttttttt, that viking spoon is Awesome!!!!!!! If thats silver then werewoles, and vampires be damned. Count Chocula better watch himself. Ok back to your weird lingo of tool talk.
You have any instructional videos on properly cord wrapping over rayskin? Also, what kinda sealer do you use over it all, and do you recommend it? Would you say just wrap tight and leave the cord be?
Josh Mason would be a good guy to contact about this as well. He's on the forum.
Next to Leu, his wrap skills are tops. Nice guy too, I'm sure he'd be happy to help.
He uses west system epoxy. I have a hartsfield style wrap piece from him, it holds up very well and leaves a nice finish.
I think I have a tsuka-maki wrap video out there... not the wrap but the soaking part.
I use West System 105 epoxy with the 207 special hardener. The 207 is meant for penetrating fabric and works very well.
My wraps are soaked but they do not look like it. After soaking the handle is solid just almost like micarta is.
I'll have to do some more Japanese style Tsuka-mai wraps, they are a great handle style. I like the feel, ergonomics, light weight and style.
link to my site and a pic of a soaked wrap... http://danielfairlyknives.com/2012/01/14/315-d2-steel-and-emerald-green-rayskin/
Ima try my hand at it with some dammy pieces. See how it goes. Just playing the waiting game now >_>
Sup dude? MORE GRINDING?
Nice! You can use shoe lace for the cord.
I just came in from lapping a bunch of folder blade pivot holes to 600 grit. Smooth...
I'm sending out about 16 more knives tomorrow and after that will be on to finishing more older projects. Today is final finishing day for all of them.
Here's an older video, I do a few things differently now.
- use an old t-shirt scrap or clean cloth instead of paper towel to clean the epoxy...
- no tape on my stencil, use windex to hold down (spray on just a bit)
- etcher only 2/3 up
That GITD wrap is the cat's panamas, D.
Daniel, is there any chance of getting some backpackers done in steel ? i would love one in steel, just as a comparison to the Carbidised Ti of my Ti BOK (which is an incredible little blade, mine lives in an ankle sheath
Absolutely, I plan on a Backpacker run in a high edge retention stainless steel like CPM 154 or S35VN.
Thanks for the kind words, I'm glad to hear you are enjoying the knife.
Will start putting money away now
I'll be sure to keep you guys updated. I'm currently saving up for a big chunk of steel and a few pieces of Titanium. I'm thinking 3/32"
thick for the steel Backpackers.
Thank you, Daniel!!
Looks like I can't find West System in my area. I can special order some using the powers of the internet, but do you have any other brand you'd recommend? Also, do you use the same epoxy for scales?
Scales - West System G-Flex
Cord Wraps - West System 105 with 207 hardener
I have destruction tested both styles multiple times... I can't knock un-pinned scales off a fixed blade with a 3# sledge, it took a blowtorch to break down the bond! ...on the wraps you can grind one half off and it will still be solid... looks like micarta when ground down!
Prep is everything, I sandblast, wash with soap/toothbrush, spray with windex, wipe with acetone then alcohol. Always wipe wood down with acetone/alcohol right before glue-up to pull the oils out... the epoxy will soak in better that way.
Sometimes I regret asking these questions. The answers eat into my DFK budget
oh yeah, that 5 minute stuff is even better! save your cash and buy more knives (not really!)
Water thin super glue works great on cord wraps and is much less money... I did my early wraps that way. Star Bond is a good brand.
Star Bond makes all sorts of cool glues, I originally used the water thin variety to stabilize stone and bone when I made jewelry.
I wouldn't replace the G-Flex for fixed blades though... I hear Acraglass is a good one also but costs just as much. You can find it at a gunsmith supply store.