Recommendation? First Time Sharpener

Discussion in 'Maintenance, Tinkering & Embellishment' started by Branden O'Donnell, Sep 21, 2020.

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  1. Branden O'Donnell

    Branden O'Donnell

    25
    Sep 13, 2020
    Hi everyone,

    Looking to purchase my first few knives soon and I have been advised to look into sharpening.
    Please recommend a good starting point.

    Knives I plan to purchase (and hopefully sharpen without ruining):
    Mora Companion
    Victorinox Swiss Army Knife Huntsman Walnut
    Benchmade Griptilian S30V

    Starting budget: ~$75.
    I can buy pieces over time. Currently shopping on bladehq, so if the pieces are available there that's a bonus for me :)

    If that is not enough information please let me know and I am happy to answer!
    Thanks in advance!
     
  2. jpm2

    jpm2

    Nov 19, 2014
    For about $60, this is what I'd start with, but there's a lot to learn using this stone and plate. If you decide to go with something like this, you might want to check back here for the details before first use.

    Norton jb8 crystolon. $20.95
    https://www.bladehq.com/item--Norton-Combination-Bench-Stone--26376

    Honing oil for the Norton. $3.95
    https://www.bladehq.com/item--Nathan-s-Honing-Oil-for-Benchstones--30492

    Eze Lap 66f diamond plate. $24.95
    https://www.bladehq.com/item--EZ-Lap-Diamond-Pocket-Sharpener--26386
     
  3. Centuriator

    Centuriator Gold Member Gold Member

    415
    Jun 7, 2020
    I've used and tried everything and for me the Sypderco Sharpmaker is the best option. You can buy stones for it that are rougher than what it comes with, and finer as well.

    I have used with my larger blades and smaller pocket knives, etc.

    Gets them all super sharp....shaving hair sharp.

    And that's good enough in my book.
     
    Last edited: Sep 21, 2020
    Dave Dallam, Razor and marchone like this.
  4. Branden O'Donnell

    Branden O'Donnell

    25
    Sep 13, 2020
    Is the diamond plate required for the benchmade blade or just to get a finer edge?
    Is there a big learning curve for the plates? Sorry for the basic questions, never sharpened before.

    This seems to be a more modern way of sharpening. Do you find this easier than stones?
    I see they have a DVD as well that's nice!
     
  5. Centuriator

    Centuriator Gold Member Gold Member

    415
    Jun 7, 2020
    Yes, so much easier ... and there are some great videos online about the SharpMaker on YouTube.

    Here is my favorite one:

     
    Dave Dallam likes this.
  6. Branden O'Donnell

    Branden O'Donnell

    25
    Sep 13, 2020
    Thanks! It's in the shopping cart :)
     
  7. jpm2

    jpm2

    Nov 19, 2014
    Not required, just recommended so you'll have an abrasive that will cut everything, and a sharpening surface you'll never have to flatten.
    The main things with diamond plates are, they need breaking in, and never use heavy pressure or high angles on them.

    It looks like you've settled on the sharpmaker, which is an excellent choice, but not sure how it's going work out with a scandi grind.
    I recommend you include the diamond or cbn abrasives for your sharpmaker.
     
  8. Squid61

    Squid61

    96
    Aug 12, 2020
    Since the Mora Companion has a micro bevel the rods should work just stick to fine rods, I don't know what grind is on the griptilian. I use Norton combination India bench stones, I think diamond plates remove too much metal; either way there usually is not too long a learning curve associated with freehand bench stone or sharpmaker sharpening.
     
  9. TraditionalMedicinal

    TraditionalMedicinal Gold Member Gold Member

    120
    Jun 17, 2020
    I'm in a similar situation, I'm thinking of getting a lansky
     
  10. sickpuppy1

    sickpuppy1 Gold Member Gold Member

    682
    Sep 27, 2018
    Benchmade claims the blade are ground to 15-17 degrees per side (dps) but I rarely see them below 20. That’s where I set mine although I am gonna reset my most commonly used mini grip to 15 and see how it acts.
     
  11. jpm2

    jpm2

    Nov 19, 2014
    I was under the impression they had a zero grind like my old ones, interesting.

    Diamond plates definitely have irregular scratches when they're new. I find after broke in, the abrasives are more the same height and don't dig as deep any more, and give a much more consistent pattern. It can take a while to get some of them leveled out.

    When I want to remove a lot of metal fast, I use the coarse side of a norton jb8. It's faster than any of my diamond plates.
     
    David Martin likes this.
  12. Squid61

    Squid61

    96
    Aug 12, 2020
    I'm not sure but I think all their "bushcraft" and utility blades have a micro bevel, I know the Companion does because I have one. It's a good idea for camping and utility knives for the added edge strength.
     
  13. Branden O'Donnell

    Branden O'Donnell

    25
    Sep 13, 2020
    Thanks! Won't be checking out for another week or so, but it does "look" easier lol. I think bladehq has a diamond add on. I might pick it up next month if you guys feel it will give a better edge on the mora (it will probably see the most action)

    Not familiar with Lansky, is there a benefit? Seems similarly priced to the sharpmaker.

    Do you use the sharpmaker on the companion?
     
  14. jpm2

    jpm2

    Nov 19, 2014
    The diamond/cbn remove metal much faster than the alumina rods that come with the sharpmaker. This will come in handy when setting/resetting bevels, and if the blade gets very dull. The default rods (brown & white) to me, are for tuning up an edge that is already in decent shape, but not quite as sharp or refined as you'd like.

    The better edge will depend on how refined you want, diamond being the coarsest, white being the finest. With the mora, which I think is used mostly for wood carving, I'd prefer a more refined edge for push cutting. So no, I don't think it would give a better edge on the mora for that purpose. The others maybe so, coarser for more/longer slicing aggression.

    The same rules that apply to the diamond and cbn plates, also apply to these rods for the sharpmaker, they need breaking in just like plates do. Don't use heavy pressure or high angles.
     
  15. Alberta Ed

    Alberta Ed

    Jun 29, 1999
    I would start with a diamond hone coarse /fine combo.
     
    Tjstampa likes this.
  16. Squid61

    Squid61

    96
    Aug 12, 2020
    Do you use the sharpmaker on the companion?[/QUOTE]
    No, all my sharpening is done with a Norton India bench stone, Spyderco fine ceramic bench stone and a strop. Usually I only need to go back to the strop and only infrequently go as far back as the fine ceramic.
     
  17. Branden O'Donnell

    Branden O'Donnell

    25
    Sep 13, 2020
    Is the diamond for when the knife becomes "too dull"? Sorry I am really trying to understand. I appreciate your explanations!

    Is that because you keep your knives quite sharp?
     
  18. Tjstampa

    Tjstampa Gold Member Gold Member

    314
    Mar 25, 2019
    I would go with the bench stones. Personally I have not had great success with the sharpmaker or lansky. That being said others do quite well with the different systems.
     
    Dave Dallam likes this.
  19. Tjstampa

    Tjstampa Gold Member Gold Member

    314
    Mar 25, 2019
    I’m not sure about the mora but for a real refined edge on the S30v you will need a diamond to cut through the carbides. My starter set was a washita 3 stone set. It has a silicon carbide stone and 2 natural stones. Still my favorite to work with. For the few super steels I have I use the DMT duo sharp. For heavy reprofiling or repair I start with a manticore from baryonex. Great stone. You may want to get a couple cheap knives to practice sharpening on.
     
  20. David Martin

    David Martin Moderator Moderator Gold Member

    Apr 7, 2008
    I would go with the JB- 8 a 2 grit crystolon stone. Its just way simple. But some cannot free hand. Thus a system is needed with 4 or 5 stones. DM
     
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