Mod'ing The CS Trail Hawk

Discussion in 'Axe, Tomahawk, & Hatchet Forum' started by CitizenQ, Jun 28, 2007.

  1. Revolvergeek

    Revolvergeek

    Jan 14, 2002
  2. CitizenQ

    CitizenQ

    May 5, 2006
    If it's stinky Mr.s Q will beat me with a stick if I use her oven and she can't beat awlful damn hard. :eek:

    I'm really fixated on Parkerizing right now, but I may buy a can of that Brownells GUN-KOTE and see how that works. I see it comes in colors too! Ohhhhh lord...nice!

    [​IMG]

    Here the best article on cold bluing I read, good stuff...

    http://www.gunsandammomag.com/gunbench/blue_0515/

    And here are some selected quotes from the article...

     
  3. mdh67

    mdh67

    3
    Jul 2, 2007
    Neat thing about krylon is when it gets buggered up, you just paint it again.
     
  4. GUN SNOB

    GUN SNOB

    294
    Jan 30, 2007
    E-mail sent.
     
  5. CitizenQ

    CitizenQ

    May 5, 2006
    Email replied!
     
  6. bobcatsniper

    bobcatsniper

    40
    Mar 5, 2006
    a while back I bought a parkerizing kit off the net...it was about $30...pretty easy to use just boiling chemicals to a certain temp....It worked so well I did my CS trailhawks, An older RMJ, and the slide off my Kel tec pistol....the finish worked great on the hawk heads
     
  7. Smith11

    Smith11

    5
    Jul 3, 2007
    how did you wrap the handle?


    Smith11
     
  8. savagesicslayer

    savagesicslayer

    May 24, 2005
    Awesome job CQ.
     
  9. CitizenQ

    CitizenQ

    May 5, 2006
    The job is about to get better. A whole lot better.
    :)
     
  10. CitizenQ

    CitizenQ

    May 5, 2006
  11. Smith11

    Smith11

    5
    Jul 3, 2007
    thanks CQ!!did you ever think of bead blasting then blueing the axe head?
     
  12. CitizenQ

    CitizenQ

    May 5, 2006
    I'm building four more moded Trail Hawks and a good guy has offered to bead blast and Parkerize three of the heads and express blue the fourth. I'm very excited at the prospect of this development.

    This article...

    http://www.gunsandammomag.com/gunbench/blue_0515/

    ...says that bluing may not be the best alternative for rust prevention. Check it out...itsa good read.
     
  13. Smith11

    Smith11

    5
    Jul 3, 2007
    good reading thanks!

    do you have a time line on the Parkerizing job?I want to see the pic's of that ASAP!
     
  14. CitizenQ

    CitizenQ

    May 5, 2006
    I expect it will be several weeks. I've ordered the hawks and then I have to ship them to Mr. Parker ;) who's then gotta find the time.
     
  15. akennedy73

    akennedy73

    May 5, 2006
    well, I've caught the CS Trailhawk modding bug thanks to you. :rolleyes: I've got one on order and can't wait to get my hands on it! I think I'm going to follow your lead with the Minwax ebony sealer - looks really good. :thumbup:

    Thanks for posting the pics! You've added another item to my too-long list of projects... :D
     
  16. CitizenQ

    CitizenQ

    May 5, 2006
    There's one (1) coat of exterior poly on that haft too bud. :thumbup:
     
  17. Bigfattyt

    Bigfattyt

    Jun 23, 2007
    Why would I file the inside of the steel hawk head eye to better fit the handle? If I do that...and the current handle breaks...the replacement handle may not fit the filed/modified eye. On the face of it, a much better solution would be to sand the handle to fit the eye. No?

    One thing I noticed with my CS Rifleman hawk was that the upper and lower edge of the eye were so sharp that they were cutting my handles up, instead of simply compressing the wood a bit, they were actually cutting it when I threw it. I took a small round file and simply "broke" the sharp edges a bit. This has made my handles stand up to throwing a lot better. I did not remove much, just enough take the sharp square edge off, but it did change the fit on to the handles a bit, but not for the worse.
     
  18. Bigfattyt

    Bigfattyt

    Jun 23, 2007
    sorry those first two lines were supposed to be a quote of CitizenQ
     
  19. Unsub

    Unsub

    Nov 23, 2006
    I just started a mod project on my new CS norse hawk. I am going for a primitive style so gun blue is definitely the right choice.
    Gun blue is actually better than parking which was done because it was cheaper and you could do big batches. The story about the Springfield is an excellent example of the dangers of anecdotal evidence. The rust was probably caused by the fact that older guns have steel with much less chromium and alloys than modern guns not the bluing process.
     
  20. GUN SNOB

    GUN SNOB

    294
    Jan 30, 2007
    Bluing is a rusting process, just controlled. If the chemicals are not rinsed and or neutralized the rusting process continues. Rust bluing (and Browning) require the parts be exposed to high humidity for up to several weeks and the rust is carded off.(wire brushed)

    Park is a coating that clauses some amount of etching but actually builds up on the surface of the metal.

    The advantage to Park is that it has pores/ a crystalline structure that will absorb and hold any oil or rust preventive. That is why it is the perfect sub straight for the paint finishes that were mentioned above. I would not Gun-Kote over bare metal that can be parkerised.

    Caustic Blue, the industry standard and parkerising are applied in the same manner. The parts are cleaned and dipped. Bluing requires app. 100 deg. more heat. I park at 195 + and bluing begins at 290-295. Niter blue requires heat as high as 700+.

    Parts being parked will set in the tank about 5-7 minuets, Bluing can take 20+ for the desired Finish. Park is applied over a blasted Finish for the best bond and will hide a 180 grit blasted Finnish. Bluing can be applied to any grade of finish but will accent any flaws in the metal. A 600 grit sanded finish may shine but you will see the scratches in the proper light.

    Any park finish is less reflective than the dullest blue finish.

    Blue is much more sensitive to any oils on the parts being finished. Even the oils from your fingers can cause discolorations.

    When a part is blued and oiled the oil sits on the surface of the part. When parked the oil is absorbed in to the parking a layer that will be as much as .005 thicker.

    I find no real difference in the durability of hand guns VS holster ware in either finish. I would say the same would be true for a blade as well. I do find that blue sands and blast off easier than park because blue is thinner.

    The only time I find bluing better is when I want a prettier, traditional or factory type finish or when I want a smoother finish with some degree of rust protection.

    My 2 cents.
     

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