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Thoughts on this design (One finished)

Discussion in 'Hammer & Tongs' started by NJJ, Sep 16, 2013.

  1. NJJ

    NJJ

    232
    May 28, 2013
    [​IMG]

    Would you change anything? I'm going for a kind of general purpose edc.

    I hope posted this in the right place ;)


    EDIT:
    I ditched this design based on feedback
     
    Last edited: Oct 10, 2013
  2. tim37a

    tim37a

    926
    May 18, 2010
    I like the basic design but I would make a few changes. Round the hump on top a bit to give the blade a better flow. I would make the handle at least 4" long - better at 4 1/2" While the thong hole at the back is nice, I suspect that 90% of the people who get one in a knife never use it, so I would drop it. I would use 3 bronze or ss pins in the handle - helps keep it straight while the epoxy is setting up. Feel free to ignore all the above - just my opinion. Make what you like.

    Tim
     
  3. Horsewright

    Horsewright KnifeMaker / Craftsman / Service Provider Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider

    Oct 4, 2011
    I agree with Tim on the rounding of the spine. Is this your first knife? If so you are gonna play heck getting that grind even on both sides. Ya might think of a flat grind all the way to the spine. Little easier to get er even. If you are making the handle of wood you need to bring that bottom curve back behind the finger guard. It will chip off if ya don't for sure. Ask me how I know that one. Pull your front pin back abut a 1/4" or so, seems a little close to the front of the handle. I like the thong tube on the back and use one on almost every knife I make. Maybe shorten your blade to 2.5" and lengthen the handle that other half an inch. Then you can still maintain your OAL which is pretty handy for an EDC.
     
  4. VaughnT

    VaughnT

    433
    Feb 7, 2010
    I don't have any problem with a thong hole. It's there if you want to use it, and if you don't want to use it (I never do), it's not hurting anything. A bit of tradition, maybe. The only caveat I would add is that the tubing has to be of a decent size that allows a common type of string to pass through easily. Too many folks go too small, imo.

    A short handle can work if you've got small hands or are trying to fit an overall size parameter set forth by the customer. However, I would err on the side of caution and increase the length of the handle. If this meant shortening the blade, so be it. You can butcher a buffalo with a 1" blade, but being able to maintain a firm grip on the knife is critical for safety's sake.

    I like that positive stop between the handle and the edge. For a working knife, this is a critical feature to me, and I wouldn't buy a "woods" knife that didn't have a very prominent guard or choil to prevent you slipping up on the blade. I would, however, stop the guard/choil before it passes below the edge of the knife. This might not seem like much, but it gives a better visual flow and doesn't interfere with using the edge on a flat surface.
     
  5. NJJ

    NJJ

    232
    May 28, 2013
    Thanks for the input guys!
    [​IMG]

    Made a few changes based on input. This isn't my first knife, I just like to get input from everywhere
     
  6. tim37a

    tim37a

    926
    May 18, 2010
    Now that's a fine knife!!!

    Tim
     
  7. samuraistuart

    samuraistuart KnifeMaker / Craftsman / Service Provider Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider

    Dec 21, 2006
    Looks great!!!!
     
  8. NJJ

    NJJ

    232
    May 28, 2013
    Thanks guys. I managed to get some cut out today -

    [​IMG]

    I'm going to try to get them ground this weekend.
     
  9. NJJ

    NJJ

    232
    May 28, 2013
    Got some grinding done -
    [​IMG]
     
  10. VaughnT

    VaughnT

    433
    Feb 7, 2010
    Looks great. No doubt that will be a very practical knife for general use.
     
  11. NJJ

    NJJ

    232
    May 28, 2013
    Here is one finished -

    [​IMG]
     
  12. motivated99

    motivated99

    12
    Oct 10, 2013
    Nice job!
     
  13. Willie71

    Willie71 Warren J. Krywko. Part Time Knifemaker Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider

    Feb 23, 2013
    I have several variations on a similar design. Its is a very useful design. Stacy had a great post a while back on geometry, and how the hand holds the knife and energy transfer. If you draw a line from the tip to the center of the bit, the index finger should be close to the center line. On yours, the index is a bit below the center line. (Not a criticism- I looked at my favorite knives, there was variation in mine, and Stacy was right- the ones closest to his design suggestion worked the best.) Thought it might be helpful in designing future knives.
     
  14. Jim McGuinn

    Jim McGuinn

    385
    Sep 8, 2013
    Could you post a link to Stacy's article I would like to read it but can't locate it.
     
  15. Willie71

    Willie71 Warren J. Krywko. Part Time Knifemaker Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider

    Feb 23, 2013
  16. Jim McGuinn

    Jim McGuinn

    385
    Sep 8, 2013
    Thanks willie71
     
  17. Everglade Blade

    Everglade Blade

    63
    Apr 5, 2013
    Good lookimg knife.
     

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