1. This site uses cookies. By continuing to use this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies. Learn More.

  2. Click here to enter the drawing for your chance to win a Kizer 1034A1 Gingrich Bush Knife & Ka-Bar Dozier Folding Hunter, , Bladeforums.com swag or memberships!

    Be sure to read the rules before entering, then help us decide next week's giveaway by hitting the poll in that thread! Entries close at midnight, Saturday Sept 7!

    Once the entries close, we'll live stream the drawing on Sunday, Sept 8 at 5PM Eastern. Tune in to our YouTube channel TheRealBladeForums for a chance to win bonus prizes!

    Questions? Comments? Post in the discussion thread here

Threaded Tangs

Discussion in 'Shop Talk - BladeSmith Questions and Answers' started by mpcoppin, Feb 19, 2019.

  1. mpcoppin


    Dec 8, 2017
    I’ve been looking at different ways to get threads on the end of a stick tang and had an idea/question.

    Has anybody used something like a spring swage to round out the end of the tang?

    I read complaints about how it’s too hard to file it to round and others about how they can never get the threads to work unless it’s perfectly round.

    Wouldn’t a spring swage get you close enough to run a die and thread it.
  2. Richard338

    Richard338 Gold Member Gold Member

    May 3, 2005
    I would say that it is much easier than you think.
    Even on my first few blades, this is one step that I didn't mess up.
    I use my grinder, and approach gently, rotating the piece. Stop frequently to mic it. It is also important to hold it flat against the wheel so you don't taper and make a cone.
    In the end it is pretty forgiving. My worst were at least 10% off of being round, but still worked fine.
    I usually jb weld it for a non-removable fit.
    aarongb and Ken H> like this.
  3. jdm61

    jdm61 itinerant metal pounder Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider

    Aug 12, 2005
    Grinder and a pair of calipers. Of course, I am working with tang that has not been hardened.
  4. Sam Dean

    Sam Dean Gold Member Gold Member

    Aug 3, 2012
    Could you take the pilot out of a (interchangeable pilot) counterbore & use it like a hollow mill to make it round before threading?

    I think I'm going to give that a try.
  5. Salem Straub

    Salem Straub

    Oct 20, 2008
    I like to add a threaded extension, myself. That way if I want to, I can add threads larger than the tang thickness would allow.
    Not really what you were wanting to hear maybe, but just thought I'd mention it as an option to keep in mind.
    gudspelr likes this.
  6. jdm61

    jdm61 itinerant metal pounder Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider

    Aug 12, 2005
    You can also do a "clevis" hinged setup too. That can make a screwed on buttcap a bit easier.
  7. Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith

    Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith ilmarinen - MODERATOR Moderator Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider

    Aug 20, 2004
    I'm with Salem … make the tang as a tang, and weld/braze a piece of threaded rod to the end. That way you get to choose size, pitch, metal type, etc.

    When adding a threaded extension to the tang, cut a slot the width of the rod in the tang before HT. After the blade is done, put the threaded rod in the slot , whack it with a hammer a few times to lock it in tight, and weld or braze it in place. Then you can grind away any excess tang to get the transition needed.
  8. Armin Drumm

    Armin Drumm

    Apr 2, 2005
    Agree with Stacey, brazzing a piece of threaded rod into a slot is the better solution. I personally do not trust in threads cut on the tang itself. The slot can also be cut with angle grinder and a thin cutting disc after HT.
  9. allenkey

    allenkey Gold Member Gold Member

    May 19, 2018
    I've been toying with the idea of making a tenon spring swage type of deal so I could forge the end of the tang to size and then run a die over the end to cut my threads. I never see anybody do this though but I've wanted to try it for a while now!
  10. jdm61

    jdm61 itinerant metal pounder Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider

    Aug 12, 2005
    You do realize that you have just claimed on a public knife forum that you trust the pot metal all-thread that you bought at Home Depot more than the steel that you have carefully chosen for your blades, right? :D
    allenkey and Spalted like this.
  11. Kali4nia


    Aug 12, 2015
    Why not weld a threaded bolt without the head? Boom threads. Lots of ways to skin a cat
  12. Hengelo_77

    Hengelo_77 Basic Member Basic Member

    Mar 2, 2006
    Make a T-shaped hole at the end of the tang and put the head of a screw in there with the thread sticking out
  13. jdm61

    jdm61 itinerant metal pounder Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider

    Aug 12, 2005
    That works as well as anything if you don't want the threaded rod to pivot. Machine screws, baby!!!!!
  14. Justin King

    Justin King

    Nov 8, 2009
    It's not that hard. Make sure it's annealed, then start with a square section that matches the diameter of the thread. Take the corners off at 45° to make it octagonal, being careful to keep the facets parallel and equal. Then round off the corners.
    It doesn't have to be perfectly round, it just can't be too big, and the part you're threading can't be hardened.
    It also helps to leave the shank a little long and taper the end to make the die start easier. As always with thread cutting, use good quality taps/dies, and use oil. It gets better with practice, like everything else.
    Last edited: Feb 22, 2019
  15. Armin Drumm

    Armin Drumm

    Apr 2, 2005
    Do I want to cut with the tang?
    And yes, I trust more in the rolled thread of a threaded bar than into a thread which was cut into tool steel.

Share This Page