What's more important? Take an edge or hold an edge?

I'll take your word for it. All I know is that my Hall's stones would not even scratch the steel. I have a 180X twin boom AmScope. Even looking at it under my microscope I couldn't see a scratch on the edges after sharpening 30 or 40 passes. But it's nothing that my DMT or Wicked Edge stones can't handle.

 

Your mileage may vary, which means that everyone has different needs and experiences, but there has to be a good balance between the two, I would think. Finding that balance that meets your needs is the journey.

 

Basically how I feel as well.

 

What are you whittling?

I've field dressed 3 and peeled 2.5 whitetail deer with Buck's 420HC (using a 110) before it needed stropped to bring the edge back.
Schrade USA Old Timers with "Schrade +" 440A ("Sharp Finger" and 7OT) would gut 2 and peel about 1.75 whitetail before they needed stropped.
Very rarely do I need to hit them with a stone.
I did re-profile to a 10DPS (20 degree inclusive) edge when I got them.
60 years ago when I was taught to sharpen I was taught 20 degrees inclusive for a knife, 30 to 40 degrees inclusive for a chopping tool - axe/hatchet etc.
The only thing I've batoned is a wedge and froe. A knife is for cutting, slicing, and whittling; not felling/limbing a tree or splitting firewood.

 

This.

 

I adore the CPM-3V.

Really good edge retention
Takes an edge fairly easily
Good corrosion resisrance
Excellent toughness

Literally everything I can ask for in a knife.